Rating: 4/5
Cuisine: Mesoamerican, corn‑driven
Price: Small plates $18–36 (order 4‑6 for two)
Chef Sebastián Vargas doesn’t just cook Mesoamerican food—he rebuilds it from the ground up. Heirloom corn gets nixtamalized in-house, tortillas ground and pressed daily in their molino. Corn is the base of every dish, but then Sebastián takes on an ingredient manifesto, whilst showcasing serious cooking technique.
The result? Some overly technical dishes that cleverly done and really well executed, but just not super tasty.. e.g. Smoked trumpet mushrooms, pickled beech mushrooms, potato, truffle and corn & coffee oil. Lots of technique, very impressive, but just not a wow on the palate.
Truth be told, on the flipside there are some dishes on this menu worth coming back for on their own! Yuca flatbread, roasted corn butter and cardamom honey.. And grilled crab arepa, smoked corn, plantain leaves and coconut oil. Take a bite and close your eyes, jesus! And the Grilled octopus taco, a perfect marriage of the pulpo, smoked kale, tangy pickled kohlrabi and spicy, sweet achiote & orange oil. A flavour discovery with every bite, truly truly delicious.
Order strategy matters. Too many masa-heavy plates and you’ll feel like Sisyphus mid-roll. Go slow, mix it up. Though fair warning: the service is so hyper-attentive they’ll snatch your plate the moment you swallow. Not a fan.
Verdict: Los Félix is a little on the Miami-hip side, a little pricy, overcomplicated here and there, and service could do with a tranquilliser shot. But, credits due, some of the dishes are worth it all and anyone trying to keep culinary history and culture alive, deserves praise!
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